Designer’s Diary

A hole-some reminder for Father’s Day…

img_2129.jpgHere’s a picture of a Norwegian jumper my dad bought for skiing in 1950-something.

Back in the 80’s, I whimsically added it to my ‘young fogey’ student wardrobe.
Now I’m getting closer towards becoming a genuine fogey, and into gardening, would you believe. So the jumper has recently been ‘retired’ into my ‘weekend-on-the-allotment’ collection.

Over time it’s become a favourite, if rather ragged, possession that I just can’t seem to part with.

My ever-dapper dad is now ’somewhere’ over 70…. but his spirit is as young as ever.

Dig you, dad!

Since publication, the facts in the above have been challenged: read comments below

Weaning off the plastic: credit where credit’s due

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If you have noted the recent furore over Sainsburys “I’m Not A Plastic Bag [but not a particularly ethical bag either]” designer bag, then you might want to shimmy along to Sally Walton’s website instead. Made near Brighton from locally-sourced recycled and vintage cottons, these really are both ethical, low-mile, made by grown-ups, and genuinely better than a plastic bag for your grocery shopping. And is it just me, but I think she might have ‘inspired’ some of our super-market marketers too (see the pic below)?

Anyway, every handbag should have one of these rolled up in the bottom, even if it’s only to bring home a bottle of something nice at the end of the day. Cheers, Sally!

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Georgian on my mind

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The little-known Building of Bath Museum is my favourite place to take visitors who want to know more about the city but don’t want to spend too much beer time doing it.
Even though it has a city-centre location, few have heard of it and fewer-still find it.

Which is a pity.

So if you’re heading this way and feel you’d like to know more about the architecture after the Roman Baths but before the £45 milli-loon 2006 ones, then head round to the Paragon for some virtue.

On the way you’ll pass the super-stylish, refreshingly unique, The Inspired Maker. Please buy more of my bags so that I can kit out my home with their 1930’s furniture finds.
And The Star, probably one of the few unspoilt pubs left in the world, is just a bit further on. What could possibly stop you?

Where to get a good tan

cimg1144.jpgYears ago, when I was the designer at Mulberry, I remember showing some important customers around the factory in Somerset. One of them was fascinated by the fact that the leather wasn’t supplied on an endless roll, like fabric would be. Of course, she quickly realised the impossibility of this but, with the fashion industry all about fast and seamless (no pun intended) production, I can see how she was thinking in this way…

I recently took an MD from the fashion world (for a company I’m doing some consulting for) to a leather trade fair in Milan. He was stunned by how many tanneries were showing, the scale of the leather goods industry, the vast selection available. And bowled over with how to choose one from another (and this was a tiny fair compared to the main one!)

So with such a specialist material, the huge selection and endless suppliers where do you start when choosing a leather?

After 18 years I know quite a lot, and I like to think I know what’s good. I certainly know what I like and why I like it.
But the tanneries themselves are the real experts. For me, the skill of turning a by-product of the meat industry into a beautiful leather is akin to turning water into wine.
It is, when done well, a kind of miracle.

And just like wine, a good leather is not just about the type and colour of the raw ingredients, but also the water, the climate, the people, the preferred taste of the region. Those little ways of doing things that make something individual.

So, the first secret is knowing the ‘good’ tanneries. What’s good for you may not be good for someone else, of course. But you need to choose your tannery to supply the look and feel, the signature, you are after. And then developing a trust that what you are buying is really going to age well and, if you are after a ‘vintage quality’, get better with time.

A lot of countries have a tanning history but Italy, for me, still has the best selection, the most creative craftsmen, and a genuine love for making something special still intact.

I always like to get a trip in to the tanneries near Florence when I can… not the prettiest Tuscan experience, admittedly. But there is something wonderful about the making of a beautiful leather out of these ancient processes…

And what’s lovely is you can see and feel, and even smell, this history in the character of the finished bag. It’s part of it, wherever it travels.

Don’t go away…

I can’t quite believe it has been a couple of months since I last posted an entry into the Diary. Brought to my attention by an increasing number of queries as to where I’ve got to, and one yesterday that wondered if I was still in business!

Crikey. YES! YES! YES! I’ve just been so, well, busy.
I always thought I was good at coping with the busy-ness of business, but nothing quite prepares you for how ‘doing your own thing’ completely takes over your life.

So please forgive me while I get myself composed…

back in 5.

A heaven made in Marrakesh

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A while ago I mentioned a visitor who I later found out was an artist living in Hawaii. We keep in touch every once in a while, and she updates me on the building of their dream home amongst acres of steamy tropical forest.

Well, I’ve recently had another lovely visitor on the diary.

Maryam dropped by and left some very nice comments, and (you know me) I had to take a look at her site.
And would you believe it? Maryam is also building her dream home. This time in acres of olive groves, just outside Marrakesh.
It all looks amazing. I’m not surprised she has been nominated for a best blogger award either, and asked by The Guardian to write an article on the Best of Marrakesh in an upcoming guide. Her blog is a fascinating and fun read. Even better, she is also building a guest house to rent…just look at the plans!

By the by, instead of asking Vogue and GQ and other lovely Conde Nast publications for some nice write ups, I wonder if I should instead be targeting builder’s supplies magazines - The Tropical Tiler’s Telegraph, and Marrakesh Masons Monthly - instead? I have a sneaky feeling that is what is really piled up on your bedside tables, dear readers?

January Blues and a Busman’s Holiday

The upside of starting your own business is the freedom to do things your way. Every day is an adventure in possibility. There’s always an opportunity to follow or an improvement to be made or a new design to try out.
The downside is that you never find time to book a holiday and you rarely see your other half. (Unless, of course, you’re in it together).

Just as well, then, that G had booked us both onto a leather course sometime back in September. Of course, he knew I couldn’t resist. (quite canny, really).
As a result, we’ve just come back from a superb break. Although not quite the same as a week drinking gluvine in the Alps (sorry, G), it was at just the right time of year, when you’re feeling a bit jaded and worn down.

workshop.jpgI absolutely love the courses that Val Michael and Neil McGregor hold in their workshop in Tetbury.
Val and Michael are the most inspiring leather craftspeople I’ve met in my 18 years in the leather industry.

As well as their courses, they have a healthy business making hand-stitched designs of their own, as well as commissions for rock-stars and royalty, restoring antiques, and providing knowledge and expertise to museums and shows. Modest to their roots, they don’t mention any of this on their website.

Their workshop is bliss. Not a machine -or computer, for that matter- in sight. Everything is hand-stitched and crafted. Peace. Calm. And lashings of tea and cake just when you need it.
As well as an education for the novice it is also a reminder for the experienced designer what leather, and honest, no-fuss quality, is all about. I came away inspired and full of renewed love for what I do (oh, and G, of course!)

I quite often get emailed from people wanting to know how to become a handbag designer, what’s the best fashion degree etc. My advice would be to get onto one of Val and Michael’s courses before you do anything else. You will learn more about leather, how things are made, and the endless possibilities that come not just from creative thought, but from the marriage of that with working with your hands. And for any die-hard designer like myself, it’s a wonderful tonic to start the new year. Plop,plop, fizz!

Every bag has a silver lining…

snapshot-2007-01-07-07-55-21.jpgOn Friday I had a customer ring in overjoyed with his Overnight Cabin Bag. Yes, he liked the style, and loved the leather, but here’s why he took the time to call:

He wanted to tell me that he’d driven from Bonn to London and on getting out at the other end, tired and in a hurry, threw the debris from the passenger seat into his bag. This included a styrofoam coffee cup, that he thought was empty.
When he came to unpack the bag the next day, he was horrified to see the cup on its side, dribbling coffee into his bag. Carefully removing his other possessions first, he saw that coffee was sitting in bubbles on the lining. With a bit of kitchen roll he dabbed it up. Absolutely no stains.

He just had to ring to tell me as he thought it would be good to put in the diary. (How nice is that?)

I have the lining made in Italy, by a family-run business based between Milan and Lake Como. Lovely people, and a superb product. The Herringbown lining is a jacquard weave of 50% cotton for a natural, tactile handle, and 50% polyester for strength, durability and a certain amount of stain resistance. The bit you don’t see is the water-resistant layer that has been applied to the back of the lining. Yes, it costs more, but it’s nice to know it’s worth that extra effort.

Feeling Capri-cious?

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I’m getting quite a few questions about what colour to buy… people love the Rhubarb and Ginger colours, but are a bit new to goat skin and how it will wear.

To get an idea of how it looks with use, this is my Villa Tote and Extrovert’s Card Case, my original samples, which I’ve been using for the last seven months.

Goat is an incredibly hardwearing leather, whilst also being very lightweight to carry and beautifully soft. Even when stuffed to the brim, the handles are super-soft and comfortable.

It’s very rare to get a bag this size in goat, however, because the tannery has to find skins that are big enough and, because I also like the natural character of the leather to shine through, they also have to be really good quality (no spray-painted finishes here)…

A challenge but, I think, worth it. This style is made from two whole hides. The factory thought I was mad… I must admit, I’m not normally decadent but, hey, every once in a while…!

All Present and Correct…

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Sorry there hasn’t been a post for a while…

I won’t say things have got out of hand, but suddenly everyone seems to have realised it’s Christmas next weekend. We’re all hands on deck here at Bown wrapping and ribboning and boxing and couriering to get everything delivered in a timely fashion. We’re still taking orders with free 24-hour delivery and returns (UK)…
If you’re looking for other ideas, here’s a few of my online favourites:

REN skincare for beauties with high standards.
Urchin babies/toddlers/kids…a state of Nirvana, if only brief, is a joy to behold.
iTunes Gift Card for stroppy teenagers and Bloomsbury for disenchanted youth.
Beer Ventures and Waitrose Wines to loosen up the in-laws.
Mr and Mrs Smith for parents with bags under their eyes.
Barker and Ball for friends with pooches. Or pooches who are friends…

although I’m more of a cat person, and somehow a piece of kitchen roll on a length of string is enough…